Monday, March 27, 2006

Satchel construction II

Yes, I actually got it put together, above you can see back and front views of it sewn together.

This was the most difficult part of the project for me because I decided to try something new and sew the gussets in the way John Waterer had indicated it was don on the original satchels, with the raw edges turned in. This is a common method of construction when working with garment leathers where you can turn the item inside out, sew it and then turn the right side back out. I couldn't do that with my satchel because it is made out of heavier tooling leather so I had to force the seams to turn in. I did this by sewing the back edge and gusset together, then sewing the gusset loosely to the bottom of the satchel and tightening the seam as I shifted the gusset so that the seam folded in. I then sewed the gusset to the front of the bag in a similar way, sewing loose seams for a few inches, stopping to tighten the stitches and repeat until I had the seam done. I repeated the same process on the other side. The thread shows because it was so dang hard to tighten and you can see the awl holes, but I got it done and I did it the way the original ones were done. Next I'll be putting Neat's foot oil on the satchel, cutting out, dyeing and finishing the strap and lacing it on.

Overall I'm happy with how it's turned out so far. I'm absolutely thrilled with how the tooling turned out, that went much better than I had expected. The sewing turned out OK. Not my best, but pretty good considering I was doing a rather difficult new technique. The only thing I'm wishing I had done differently was to make the front flap longer. Not bad for such an involved project.

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